Yarn research
Researching different companies involved in design of yarns and marketing them showed that the biggest themes at present as in every part of life are sustainability, traceability and innovation.
Some companies such as ‘Woolmark’ and ‘The Campaign for Wool’ focus on education, innovation and a collaboration between wool ‘growers’, designers, retailers, manufacturers, artisans and interior designers.
‘Woolmark’ has a clear website with fashion photos, free courses ,and education which all promote the use of wool. The site concentrates on the properties, production, and finished items rather than specific yarns used. However it does present information about wind and water resistant woollen fabric with yarn produced by the latest spinning techniques. There is traceability from the farms with the sheep through the supply chain to the designers working in conjunction with the company. There is also an innovative process for creating ‘wool denim’ which would make use of the properties of wool to create warm, lightweight denim fabric along with cotton.
‘The Campaign for Wool also has a clear inviting website highlighting HRH The Prince of Wales as the patron. An interesting statement is that woollen garments typically have a life of 2-10 years whereas “fast’ fashion garments are discarded after 2-3 years. This company has an annual wool week in the UK with courses and exhibitions championing the use of woollen yarn.
‘Cotton Inc’ is a not for profit organisation which provides resources and research to help companies develop and market cotton. They can help with quality, innovation, sustainability, and creating a profitable product from the cotton fibre to the finished product.
The ‘Cotton Inc’ site had links to yarn producers and spinners and I chose one to explore further – Cap yarns. This company’s site showed swatches of knitted yarns from their range, with blended fibres creating slubs, streaks and a vintage feel. They have developed a denim look yarn based on the use of a indigo warp and natural weft in woven denim; the resulting yarn has a blue base with a white slub, mimicking the denim look. The look can also be altered for the customer by different dyeing techniques.
‘Invista’ is a company specialising in nylon, polyester and polyurethane products. It focuses on the strength, flexibility and innovation produced by these materials, and is currently developing new products such as a carpet that can capture dust and allergens until they are vacuumed. This company makes a diverse range of products such as the nylon polymers used to make cell phones, and those used to make strong backpacks.
‘Lurex’ has a website showcasing the beautiful yarns it produces with pictures of garments, fabrics and each of its yarns. It has yarns that are transparent, holographic, rainbow effect, translucent and iridescent, with an emphasis on sparkle, glamour and an antique look to some of them. There are glow in the dark yarns, and enamel effect yarns which give a painterly look. The yarns are used for weaving and knitting for fancy effects. I was interested to see information about how some of the effects are achieved for example the creation of gimp which has a central core of viscose with lurex twisted around it, and with a black core gives an antique look to the result. Lurex seem to have a large presence for these types of yarns and their website presents the different products and colours with beautiful photography and clear photos with plenty of information.
‘Pittimmagine’ is a company which presents big shows including catwalk shows, to champion word-scale excellence in yarns. They present ideas that bring fashion, art, sport and design together. They sponsor a student.
‘Heimtextil’ is another company presenting trade fairs, focussing on cultural trends and colours from around the world. It promotes sustainability.
This is an ongoing piece of research and will be added to as I progress.